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They were on their third chef by the time I wrote it up with a Satisfactory rating, in the spring of 2019. All three had obvious talent. As far as I could tell, they were just having trouble making food that was as dull as the owners wanted.

The restaurant hired its fourth chef later that year. Her name is Angie Mar. A dinner there not long after she took over convinced me that the kitchen was moving in the right direction, but it did not hint that she would eventually make the Beatrice Inn into a meat lover?s palace with a menu unlike any other in the city.

Ms. Mar, who bought the restaurant over the summer, still calls it a chophouse, but it is no longer a place where cautious eaters seek refuge from the unknown. Her Beatrice Inn offers an irresistible opportunity to take chances and eat with abandon.

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